I have just come across a wealth of pictorial information via the New York Public Library Digital Gallery and I am so very thankful that this website exists to better educate and inform us of vintage fashions of the 1940s (and other decades!) through fashion design illustrations.

Imagine my excitement as I "leafed" through page after page of fashion designs illustrating coats from the 1940s with small notations. Some of these fashion terms I have not come across yet and I have tried to my best ability to include these terms and definition with the images below.


Plaid coat with four bias patch pockets covered with flaps. Spring 1940-1941


Wide cape sleeve on plaid coat. Spring 1940-1941


Frog closure on front of coat. Front flare. Spring 1940-1941.


Faille silk imported (not sure if that is the actual word, hard to read) in sleeves and edging closing. Spring 1940-1941.

What is FAILLE SILK?
I have seen the word "faille" before but never actually knew what it meant. So according to New York Fashion Center: "A slightly glossy silk with strongly defined soft, wide ribs, silk faille is heavy in weight but maintains a shallow, graceful drape. An exceptionally soft hand and readiness to take a crease makes this fabric beautiful for use in tailored suits and jackets. Silk faille retains a light sheen that draws attention to its premium silk fibers, without being too glossy for the workplace or formal settings."


"Dandy" Reefer. Double breasted with deep cuffs. Spring 1940-1941.

What is a REEFER coat?
I have never come across this term up until seeing these fashion illustrations. I always just referred to coats like these as trench coats. But according to Army Navy Deals: "The reefer jacket was of naval origin, and described the short double breasted jacket worn by sailors in harsh weather, when they perform duties such as reefing the sails."

and according to The Free Dictionary: "1. A short, heavy, close-fitting, double-breasted jacket.
2. A close-fitting, single-breasted or double-breasted coat."


Cape sleeve on lounge coat. Spring 1940-1941.


"Dandy" reefer coat with detachable tiered cape. Spring 1940-1941.


Fitted coat, soft bodice (?), set in flare gives front fullness ending in pockets. Fashion drawing 1938.


Yoke continuing to drop shoulder and skirt of matching faille silk or contrasting wool. Spring 1940-1941.


Fox collared boxy tweet coat. Soft nose on body beneath collar. Spring 1940-1941.